M/V Sun Cat

M/V Sun Cat

Tuesday, September 25, 2007

update 9/20/07 - The Illinois & Mississippi Rivers










Statues of Lincoln & Douglas debating - Ottawa, Illinois

Hello to all,

We are presently on the Mississippi, having finished the Illinois River on Friday. After Starving Rock Lock, we stopped at Henry Illinois for the night. The marina was ok, the bar was good and we had a short walk around town the next morning before heading out. The town was small but they had preserved their downtown and it was pleasant to walk through. It was a fairly short days run to Peoria where we stayed at the Illinois Valley Yacht Club. I was the only one to use the pool there that day as everyone else thought it was cold. I had a good swim anyway. There was a dock party that evening with the seven or eight other looper boats staying there.

The next morning we were off early and headed south to Beardstown which was approximately 80 miles away. The wickets were down at the Peoria dam so we were able to sail right through without stopping. The water around the town docks at Beardstown was too shallow so we tied off to a barge at the towing service and went for a walk in town. The park was nice, otherwise there wasn't much else to town.

The next day was another 80 mile run to Grafton which is the point where the Illinois River joins the Mississippi River. The wickets were down at the last lock also so we again sailed right through. The wickets are in effect a moveable dam. When the water is too low for navigation, the wickets are raised and a dam is created that creates a pool of water behind it (generally all the way up to the next dam) that is adequate for safe navigation. When this happens, then vessels need to pass through the lock rather than around it. The locks and dams are managed by the Army Corps of Engineers and depths of each pool are measured in feet above sea level. The Corps publishes actual water levels daily on the internet based on “pool level”. This allows one to adjust both depths on the charts to the river level and also to adjust bridge clearances to actual.

When we passed through the low (17 ft) bridges in Chicago, we actually had over a foot of additional clearance since the pool above the Lockport Dam was over a foot lower than normal. Conversely, we could not pass under a 26 foot bridge on the Illinois because the water in that pool was much higher than normal, which is why the wickets were down. (Fortunately it was a lift bridge so we were able to pass through it).

The Illinois River after Joliet became more and more scenic the further west and south we went. The banks were lined with trees and we could see a lot of farmland behind the banks. We also saw Eagles and Blue Herons as well as fish jumping. As we approached Grafton, the banks rose to high hills and cliffs and it was very pretty.
The lower Illinois

Grafton was an interesting stop. The marina was nearly new. I had to squeeze the boat into a slip that was crosswise to the river current and the wind and had only a foot or so on each side. No damage! The town has a population of 600 and at least 5 bars and restaurants, 3 of which had live music that evening. There seemed to be very few customers in any of them which seemed strange for a nice Friday night. We walked around town a bit but other than the winery there was little to see.

The next day we traveled a whole 12 miles to Alton, Il which is a town of around 35,000 people. We took a car and drove into St. Louis that afternoon, visiting the famous Arch which commemorates St. Louis’s role in the westward expansion of the US. We spent most of the afternoon in the Museum of Westward Expansion which is located under the arch. It focused on the history of St Louis, the key events that pushed the country’s borders west such as the Louisiana purchase, the transcontinental railroad and the Lewis & Clark expedition. We also saw the baseball stadium. The Cardinals were playing a day/night doubleheader against the Cubs and there were fans of both everywhere.

The following day we went to the “Great Rivers” Museum which is located at the Melvin Price Lock which is about 2 miles below the marina. We were too late for the lock tour but we did get to try the simulator which lets one get a feel for driving a river tow. After a couple of tries both Bob and I successfully got the tow to pass under the bridge. We knew driving a tow had to be difficult and this further confirmed it. The tows have been getting bigger and bigger as we go. On the Illinois, the bigger tows were 3 barges wide by 5 long. We’ve seen a lot of those and several that have been 5 by 5 for a total of 25 barges being pushed by large towboats. We are told we may see some that are 56 barges! That evening there was another looper happy hour as there were at least 14 looper boats at the marina that evening. We followed that with a light dinner at Fast Eddy’s which is one of those places that has to be experienced to appreciate.
Mississippi River scene

On Monday, we went back to the great rivers museum to do the lock tour. It was fun to see the operation from high up although we could not go in the control room because of security concerns. We also saw two movies there, one on commerce on the river and one on Lewis and Clark. We also had to try out the pool and hot tub in the afternoon.

A "tow" and a train on the Mississippi
The next day we started our 200 mile trek down the Mississippi. It was great going with the current and the first day was a short trip pf 40 miles to Hoppie’s fuel service dock. This is another of those classic stops which you have to do once. The “docks” consist of a series of barges anchored lengthwise in the river to which one spins around and docks going into the current. Fern, Hoppie’s wife is the fountain of knowledge for boating on the Mississippi and she gave all of us a chart class on where to anchor and what to watch out for on our way down the river. We also took a quick walk into town and sampled the mile high apple pie at a local restaurant.
At anchor at Boston Bar - Note the current on our
anchor retrieval bouy

On Wednesday, we did another 40 miles or so to the Kaskaskia River where we tied up to the lock. That afternoon we, Bali Motu and Silver Boots took the dinghies (theirs as ours is way too slow) and went through the lock (interesting in a dinghy) and went 10 miles up the Kaskaskia River to Evansville where we tried a couple of the local establishments for drinks and dinner.

Today was the longest day we have ever done – 110 Statute miles down the Mississippi to an anchorage at Boston Bar about 8 miles above the junction with the Ohio River which was recommended by Fern in lieu of one that had silted in. We are not out of the current, have a (high level) bridge behind us and the tows pass within 300 yards of us. Others, including Silver Boots, have used it and say it is fine but it is definitely different from anywhere else we’ve anchored. We left at 0630 and got in around 1630, helped immensely by the current. Tomorrow we go up the Ohio and have two locks to deal with as well as the current.

Everyone asks for pictures so I’ve attached a few MIS1.jpg is a scene from the Missisippi. This is one of the smaller tows. Noroom is what we had to deal with on the Sanitary and Ship Canal. We were following Honga and as you can see had no place to go. Sunset was tonight’s sunset over the Mississippi. Note the current on the float for our anchor retrieval line! More pictures on the Blog.

Off to Kentucky and Tennessee!

Steve & Jean
Aboard MV Sun Cat

Wednesday, September 12, 2007

Update 9/12/07 - Chicago

Skipper Bob is right. Chicago is a very big town! We tried hard but we certainly didn't see it all. More on that later.

When I started this we were just west of Joliet, Il, having started down the Illinois River yesterday. We are sitting with 8 other looper boats waiting for a lock to be available.

To review the past two weeks, we had an interesting stay in Racine. We walked about 4 miles just to buy one of their (famous?) Kringle pasteries (the walk justified the extra calories of course) used the pool and hot tuib and wandered around town a bit. It was an unusual downtown. There were plenty of stores but no financial district and no downtown hotels. We took a bus to the grocery store planning to take a taxi back so we put a lot of soda in our cart. However, when we asked the store to call us a cab, they said they had never seen one around town and we were unable to find one on the telephone-strange, a city twice the size of Portland and no taxi's! We wound up not buying any of the heavy items and taking the bus back to the marina where we consoled ourselves in the pool and hot tub.

From Racine, we went down to Waukegan, Il to another large (1000 slips!)marina. Our friends Eldon and Dianne flew in to meet us there and brought real Maine Lobsters for us all to enjoy for dinner. Quite a treat! The next day, the 4 of us took the train into Chicago to check out the marina situation. We toured Millenium Park and Navy Pier. The train ride was kind of fun traveling through a bunch of towns I'd heard of but had no idea where they were. It was another reminder that this trip is a real geography lesson.


Sun Cat on wall - Columbia Yacht Club in Background

Chicago skyline and Navy Pier from water


The next day (Friday 8/31) we had a nice trip down Lake Michigan to Chicago and tied up to the wall at Monroe Harbor rather than picking up the mooring we had reserved. The location was great as we were right near the downtown loop and Millenium Park and mid-way between Navy Pier and the Museum Campus which were both within walking distance. We were also within yards of Columbia Yacht Club and Chicago Yacht Club, both of which gave us reciprocal privileges to use their facilities. We also took the "Architectural Cruise. This is a boat trip through part of downtown Chicago where they describe the design features of a number of buildings that were new or innovative. It also gave us our first look at the low bridges on the Chicago River (gulp!).That evening we had a nice dinner at the Columbia Yacht club with both Eldon and Dianne and George and Marion from Time Out.
Monroe Harbor and Navy Pier from Ellen  and Woody's

On Saturday, Eldon and I visited the Chicago History Museum while Jean and Dianne did some shopping and that evening we attended a party for the Loopers and the home of Ellen and Woody Sutton overlooking the harbor and Soldier's Field. On Sunday, Eldon and I went to a Cubs game at Wrigley Field. Wrigley is another real classic park like Fenway and Cubs fans are certainly enthusiastic. We rode to the game on the metro train and it was quite a sight to see thousands of fans arriving and departing in that manner. The Cubs won with a home run in the bottom of the eighth inning which made it even more exciting.






Our view of Wrigley Field


Eldon and Dianne left Monday to fly home and Jean and I spent the day going to the Aquarium and Planetarium. Either one would have been a most of the day adventure. That evening we hosted a happy hour for the crews of Gypsy Time, Sweet Dreams and Lamb Chop. The next day we went to the Hancock Observatory for a great view of Chicago and the surrounding area from very high up. We could see much of the city and the lake shore all the way down to Gary Indiana. This may be as close as we get to seeing any of Indiana. We also went to a Farmer's Market and did a little shopping. That evening there was a Pot Luck Dinner which was attended by six to eight of the looper boats in Chicago.

On Wednesday, we spent the day at the Field Museum. It's mostly natural history, highlighted by Sue. Sue is the skeleton of a large dinosaur. Further in the museum there were may more skeletons of dinosaurs, some real and some replicated. There were also exhibits related to diamonds and other gems, mammals, polonesia and several Indian tribes. We spent all day there and barely scratched the surface.
Entrance to the aquarium

The next day we went to the Museum of Science and Industry. The feature there was the German U-boat #505 which was captured intact by the US Navy in 1944. The submarine was moved to the museum because the Captain of the navy task force that accomplished the capture was from Chicago. The entire sub was inside the building and a very good video described the events leading up to its capture and why it was so important. There were also displays of trains, planes, antique cars, a coal mine and we also watched an interesting Imax movie on Katrina and the Louisiana bayous.

Friday was somewhat of a maintenance day as I changed the oil in the generator, finished my "bridge tickler" pole and lowered the radar dome and dinghy hoist. Most of this was necessary to make sure we could clear the 17 foot bridges in downtown Chicago. That evening we had dinner at the Columbia Yacht Club again with Bob and Sharon from Catch Me If You Can and Bob and Alice from Bali Motu. This was the end of our stay in Chicago. There was still a lot more to see and do but we'd been there a week and it was time to move on.

Starting down the Chicago River
Note "bridge tickler" 
On Saturday, we headed down the Chicago River and the Chicago Sanitary and Ship Canal to Joliet, accompanied by Bali Motu,Transition and Honga. Catch Me left at the same time but went through the Calumet River because of air draft limitations. The trip through downtown Chicago through all of the low bridges and skyscrapers was a lot of fun. However, the last 15 miles or so was nerve wracking as there were barges parked all over the place and we often had to wait for tows going one way or the other in order to find places to pass. The tows move very slowly and were also having to jocky around the parked barges. When we reached the Lockport Lock, we then had to tie off to the commercial mooring cells and waited almost two hours before we could lock through. We were all glad to finally get through the lock and all of us tied off to the free wall at Joliet. We consoled ourselves with a good dinner at the Casino.

The next morning we were awakened early as the next lock (2 miles below us) had informed one of the boats that if we were there by 7:40 they would be ready for us. We got there around 8:30 and wound up waiting over 2 hours to lock through. It was during this wait that I started this update. We stopped after 15 miles with Bali Motu to take a break and enjoy the pool at the marina. We also remounted the radar dome and dinghy hoist.

The next morning I called the Dresden Lock (about 3 miles down) as was informed that if we were there in an hour to an hour and a half they would be ready for us. We got there in about an hour and waited another 30-45 minutes and then they took us through. The next lock turned out to be a longer wait, close to two hours. The delays are the result of the tows which can be up to 12 or even 15 barges. These have to be broken up to go through the locks and then reassembled afterwards. This process can easily take several hours and we've heard of boats having to wait over 5 hours to clear a lock. After another delay at Marsellais Lock, we stopped for the night at the free dock at Ottawa, Il. where we were joined by Drifters. As has often been the case, the locals were very friendly and helpful. Joe gave the ladies a ride to the grocery store and John Mobley, a previous looper gave all six of us a ride to the local Mexican restaurant which was good. Ottawa was the site of the first Lincoln/Douglas debate and was an interesting town to walk around.

As I finish this, we are going down the Illinois River about 120 miles from Chicago. We got off at 9 this morning but had a 2 hour wait at the Starving Rock Lock before we really got going. The Illinois has changed from heavy industry to mostly rural areas and has become quite scenic. It seems to get better and the number of tows seem to decrease the further south (really west) we go.

Still having a great time!

Steve and Jean
Aboard M/V Sun Cat

Sunday, August 12, 2007

SUn Cat/ Trader Update 8/15/07 - North Channel and Macinaw Island





We are back in the US after a fun trip up the North Channel of Lake Huron. The Flotilla broke up after the outstanding fireworks show last Sunday night and we headed out on Monday to the Benjamin Islands accompanied by Larry and Lola on Lola Marie. The forecast that day was for fairly strong winds but much of our route was behind islands and we generally saw seas on 2 feet or less.

We anchored between north and south Benjamin islands with about 30 other boats (it was a Canadian holiday). The anchorage was surrounded on 3 sides with high granite islands covered with pine trees and it was neat to see the boats anchored with one end riding on an anchor and the other end tied off to a rock or tree ashore. (We didn’t try this!).That afternoon we hiked one of the islands. We discovered the scenery was great but there were no blueberries. Happy hour was with Jim and Joan, and Lola and Larry on Christine that night.


Sailboats moored to shore

The anchorage at the Benjamins from the top

Christine under way in the north channel


Early the next morning, the wind changed direction and the anchorage became somewhat less comfortable. I awoke about 2AM to find the sailboat that had been ahead of us was now about a boat length behind us and he was slightly aground. We were in about 15 feet of water and the anchor was holding well so I decided to stay put until daylight when we moved over a bit to get further from the rocks. We did some more hiking that day but were chased back to the boats by a thunderstorm, after which the wind died. Lola served the six of us an awesome brownie desert after supper.

The next day we did a dinghy expedition to Fox Island which is the northernmost of the Benjamin Islands. It was pretty and very well protected anchorage with some goodhiking and a few small blueberries. That evening we had a campfire on the beach with eight other looper boats, complete with hot dogs and s’mores. Great Fun!

From the Benjamins we motored up to Beardrop Harbor, another beautiful, protected anchorage. To get there, we passed through Little Detroit channel. This channel was 75 feet wide, a couple of hundred yards long and had a sharp turn at one end that prevented one from seeing what was coming. Boats about to enter put out “security” calls and we passed through safely. Once at beardrop, we hiked to the top of several of the surrounding islands and got some great pictures of the anchorage. Beardrop was our furthest point north on the trip at 46 09.7 degrees north.

It was time to leave Canada so the next day (Friday), we went to Drummond Island, Michigan where we cleared in through US customs. After a quick shopping trip Sat. morning we went to Government Bay in the Le Cheneaux islands for an evening and then went to Mackinac (pronounced Mackinaw) Island the following day. We did not expect to get a slip at the marina there and were very pleased when we did as the forecast was for strong winds and there was no place to anchor.
The marina with fort in background

The Yacht Club

We spent the rest of Sunday as well as Monday and Tuesday at Mackinac Island playing tourist with lots and lots of other people. The island does not permit any automobiles or trucks so people get around either in horse-drawn wagons or bicycles. (There seemed to be thousands of bicycles everywhere!) We took a horse and buggy tour, walked to the two forts, skull cave, and the Grand Hotel. We also took a bike ride completely around the island, accompanied by Bob and Sharon from Catch Me if you Can and Jim and Joan from Chistine. During that tour we climbed up to Arch Rock, saw the Devil’s Kitchen and the site of the British Landing and then had a nice lunch at the Grand Hotel’s Gatehouse restaurant. Last night we had a nice dinner with the crews of Time Out, Wonderland, Grand Start and Mascot.

This morning, we got up at 0615 and are headed down Lake Michigan to Charlevoix. If we have cell coverage, this may be sent underway! `

Having a great time

Steve and Jean
Aboard M/V Sun Cat
Somewhere on Lake Michigan

Pictures from Mackinac Island:



Arch Rock

Joan, Jean and Sharon on our circumnavigation by bike

The Grand Hotel and its "taxi"

The Main Street - no cars on island!

Another look at the "taxi" to the Grand Hotel

Update 8/27/07 - West side of Lake MichiganCharlevoix

Hello to all,

The last week or so has been the most affected by weather of the whole trip but it has still been fun. After our stay on Mackinac Island, we went to Charlevoix, Michigan which is a neat resort town. The trip there was one of the longest we’ve had since New Jersey since we did around 57 miles that day. It turned out to be the best travel day for that week as we spent the next two waiting for the weather to improve.
Charlevoix Marina - under construction but the docks were new


Entrance to Charlevoix headed  in

During that wait, we got a good look at how rough Lake Michigan can get. The wind was very strong out of the Northwest and the waves were 4 to 5 feet. Fortunately we were in a harbor where we were well protected from the wind and waves and during that time we walked and biked around town, visited with friends and generally relaxed.

From there we went to Leland which is another resort town. We toured “Fishtown” which is the equivalent of their historic district. Fishtown consisted of a series of very old buildings which originally housed services for the local fishermen. Today they are restaurants and tourist traps. We also walked around town a bit. One of the interesting situations we now have is that there are a lot (somewhere more than 50) loopers presently on Lake Michigan. We seem to hit the marinas in groups of 8-12 and require more space than they often have. Sometimes there is a place to anchor and much of the time there is not. The solution is that we sometimes wind up rafting on the dock. In Leland, they put us across the end of the finger pier which means only 3 feet of the boat was in contact with the dock and we had a boat rafted to us as well.

Some people have the strangest dinghies!

And unusual lawn ornaments

Leland Harbor - note boats across end of dock!


From Leland, we went to Frankfort and then Luddington. At Frankfort, we did a long beach walk as well as a short tour of the town. The beaches here are fine sand and the real treasure is when one finds stones that contain prehistoric fossils. We didn’t find any of those but I did find one that I’m pretty sure is an arrowhead. Luddington is an industrial town that was clearly in transition. We did find a good brew pub where we indulged in some of the local brews with our friends George and Marion on Time Out. After Luddington, we went to Pentwater which is another pretty resort community. We spent 2 days there waiting for the winds to drop down during which we did a beach walk, toured the town, toured the museum, shopped and socialized with friends.

The following day (Friday), we set out for Grand Haven but wound up putting into White Lake as Lake Michigan became rougher than we wanted to deal with. On White Lake are the communities of Whitehall and Montegue and we spent 2 days walking, biking and socializing there. The railroad line that runs through both towns has been turned into a bike path which is over 15 miles long and passed right outside of the marina. We also went to the Farmer’s market (our second or third this week) and went to the museum. On Saturday night we had a pot luck dinner with the crews from Sweet Dreams, Sunrise, Gypsy Time and Just Us.

This side of Lake Michigan reminds me a lot of the New Jersey shore. There are long sandy beaches punctuated by inlets to what are often resort towns. In addition, at each inlet there are large clusters of small fishing boats. One of the loopers counted over 30 boats in front of him at one point. In addition to the fresh water and no tide, the inlets have less current in them than New Jersey and the water is generally much deeper with depths of 100 to 200 feet a mile or two offshore being common. It also seems that more fish are being caught.
Lake Michigan shoreline

A tribute to Luddington's Lumbering history



As I write this, we are crossing Lake Michigan to Wisconsin and are about 20 miles from White Lake and 50 from Racine. The ferry from Muskegan to Milwalkee just crossed to the south of us and we should be well south of his path by the time he comes back this way. We are planning to be in Chicago for around a week over Labor Day weekend which should be a lot of fun.

















The last coal powered freighter  on Lake Michigan leaving Luddington

Some happy fishermen in Pentwater

Sweet Dreams coming into Pentwater

Looper happy hour in Pentwater

Railway station and bike path in White Lake












The preceding was written on Sunday (yesterday). We reached Racine about 5PM yesterday after an absolutely awesome crossing of the Lake. We had a following swell of less than a foot and very little wind which meant no chop. We are now about 70 miles from Chicago and should have some protection from the winds the rest of the trip.

Having a great time.

Steve and Jean
Aboard M/V Sun Cat

Update 8/11/07 - Georgian Bay of Lake Huron

Our 22 boat flotilla rafted at Port Rawson Bay - Sun Cat is the 8th boat from right
Point Au Baril Lighthouse- the original light was a barrel!


11 mile dinghy flotilla to moon river falls

Collins inlet - Georgian B



For the last week we have been traveling with 21 other boats through the 30,000 islands of Georgian Bay, Lake Huron. The weather has been beautiful and the scenery is gorgeous. The landscape is a lot like Penobscot Bay, Maine - Granite Islands covered with mostly pine trees with camps and homes throughout. The water is quite different however as it is fresh, not salt, warm enough to swim, has no tide, and is very clear. One can see bottom in 20 feet of water.

The navigation is different also. We have been following the small craft channel through the bay. This has taken us through some very narrow spots with the sides of the boat just about touching the navigation marks on each side and the rocks very close and clearly visible.

Our first stop last Friday was an anchorage at Port Rawson Bay where we made a raft of the 22 boats in one corner of the bay. Quite a sight! The water was warm and we were able to swim off of the boats. The following day we took a dinghy excursion to moon river falls – 11 miles one way. It was quite a sight to see 15 dinghies in convoy. We knew our 4 HP engine would be too slow so we rode with Larry and Lola from Lola Marie with their 40 hp engine. The falls was beautiful as was the scenery on the way in.
Moon River Falls

Sunday and Monday were spent at Parry Sound. Parry Sound was the home of hockey great Bobby Orr and we visited the Bobby Orr Hall of Fame as well as the local museum. We also climbed the fire tower which is now open to the public and provides as great view of the surrounding area. Our leaders, Karen and Bob, put on a wine and cheese party that evening and a good time was had by all!

Kaos, Time Out and Transition underway

Dinner at the German restaurant, Killbear Marina

 Honga is lead boat - The rocks were left to starboard


On Tuesday we traveled only 12 miles to Killbear Marina, stopping for a swim along the way. That evening we had a group dinner at the German restaurant located at the marina. The next day we wound our way through various channels through the islands to Byng Inlet where we stayed at Wrights Marina. The entertainment that evening was a pot luck dinner. We definitely have a lot of good cooks in the flotilla.

Thursday was the longest day -65 miles, much of it through open water. Our destination was the village of Killarney where we stayed at the Sportsmen’s Inn and Marina. Many of the boats had dinner at Mr. Perch – a restaurant in an old school bus that does several million dollars of business each year. We walked around town and had an ice cream.

More scenery from our bow
On the way to Killarney we passed through some of the most dramatic scenery yet as we went through Collins Inlet. Collins inlet was more like a canyon than any other place we’ve been and went on for about 10 miles. It was good traveling however, since except for the inlet the water was generally deep from shore to shore. We all kicked up a lot of mud on the way in as that was very shallow- plus or minus 5 feet!

The next day was a short 20 miles to Little Current where we are staying for the weekend. This is their Haweater Festival weekend and there is a lot going on. Yesterday we went to the Farmer’s Market, then watched the cardboard boat races which were a hoot. After that we went to a classic car show. Most of the cars were from the 50’s and 60’s and we enjoyed them very much. Last evening Bob ans Karen put on another wine and cheese party and we followed that with desert and coffee on Lola Marie. Today we are getting a bus tour of the island (Manitoulin Island) and there is a big fireworks show scheduled for tonight.

The week before this we spent in Penetang, Ontario at the AGLCA Rendevous. This included classes on what to expect on Lakes Huron and Michigan and the Illinois, Mississippi, Ohio and Tennessee rivers as well as numerous social events. We also toured Discovery Harbor, which is a recreation of the British Navel base of the 1800’s in Penetang and we also took an evening dinner cruise on the Georgian Queen.

In all its been a fun two weeks!