M/V Sun Cat

M/V Sun Cat

Tuesday, September 25, 2007

update 9/20/07 - The Illinois & Mississippi Rivers










Statues of Lincoln & Douglas debating - Ottawa, Illinois

Hello to all,

We are presently on the Mississippi, having finished the Illinois River on Friday. After Starving Rock Lock, we stopped at Henry Illinois for the night. The marina was ok, the bar was good and we had a short walk around town the next morning before heading out. The town was small but they had preserved their downtown and it was pleasant to walk through. It was a fairly short days run to Peoria where we stayed at the Illinois Valley Yacht Club. I was the only one to use the pool there that day as everyone else thought it was cold. I had a good swim anyway. There was a dock party that evening with the seven or eight other looper boats staying there.

The next morning we were off early and headed south to Beardstown which was approximately 80 miles away. The wickets were down at the Peoria dam so we were able to sail right through without stopping. The water around the town docks at Beardstown was too shallow so we tied off to a barge at the towing service and went for a walk in town. The park was nice, otherwise there wasn't much else to town.

The next day was another 80 mile run to Grafton which is the point where the Illinois River joins the Mississippi River. The wickets were down at the last lock also so we again sailed right through. The wickets are in effect a moveable dam. When the water is too low for navigation, the wickets are raised and a dam is created that creates a pool of water behind it (generally all the way up to the next dam) that is adequate for safe navigation. When this happens, then vessels need to pass through the lock rather than around it. The locks and dams are managed by the Army Corps of Engineers and depths of each pool are measured in feet above sea level. The Corps publishes actual water levels daily on the internet based on “pool level”. This allows one to adjust both depths on the charts to the river level and also to adjust bridge clearances to actual.

When we passed through the low (17 ft) bridges in Chicago, we actually had over a foot of additional clearance since the pool above the Lockport Dam was over a foot lower than normal. Conversely, we could not pass under a 26 foot bridge on the Illinois because the water in that pool was much higher than normal, which is why the wickets were down. (Fortunately it was a lift bridge so we were able to pass through it).

The Illinois River after Joliet became more and more scenic the further west and south we went. The banks were lined with trees and we could see a lot of farmland behind the banks. We also saw Eagles and Blue Herons as well as fish jumping. As we approached Grafton, the banks rose to high hills and cliffs and it was very pretty.
The lower Illinois

Grafton was an interesting stop. The marina was nearly new. I had to squeeze the boat into a slip that was crosswise to the river current and the wind and had only a foot or so on each side. No damage! The town has a population of 600 and at least 5 bars and restaurants, 3 of which had live music that evening. There seemed to be very few customers in any of them which seemed strange for a nice Friday night. We walked around town a bit but other than the winery there was little to see.

The next day we traveled a whole 12 miles to Alton, Il which is a town of around 35,000 people. We took a car and drove into St. Louis that afternoon, visiting the famous Arch which commemorates St. Louis’s role in the westward expansion of the US. We spent most of the afternoon in the Museum of Westward Expansion which is located under the arch. It focused on the history of St Louis, the key events that pushed the country’s borders west such as the Louisiana purchase, the transcontinental railroad and the Lewis & Clark expedition. We also saw the baseball stadium. The Cardinals were playing a day/night doubleheader against the Cubs and there were fans of both everywhere.

The following day we went to the “Great Rivers” Museum which is located at the Melvin Price Lock which is about 2 miles below the marina. We were too late for the lock tour but we did get to try the simulator which lets one get a feel for driving a river tow. After a couple of tries both Bob and I successfully got the tow to pass under the bridge. We knew driving a tow had to be difficult and this further confirmed it. The tows have been getting bigger and bigger as we go. On the Illinois, the bigger tows were 3 barges wide by 5 long. We’ve seen a lot of those and several that have been 5 by 5 for a total of 25 barges being pushed by large towboats. We are told we may see some that are 56 barges! That evening there was another looper happy hour as there were at least 14 looper boats at the marina that evening. We followed that with a light dinner at Fast Eddy’s which is one of those places that has to be experienced to appreciate.
Mississippi River scene

On Monday, we went back to the great rivers museum to do the lock tour. It was fun to see the operation from high up although we could not go in the control room because of security concerns. We also saw two movies there, one on commerce on the river and one on Lewis and Clark. We also had to try out the pool and hot tub in the afternoon.

A "tow" and a train on the Mississippi
The next day we started our 200 mile trek down the Mississippi. It was great going with the current and the first day was a short trip pf 40 miles to Hoppie’s fuel service dock. This is another of those classic stops which you have to do once. The “docks” consist of a series of barges anchored lengthwise in the river to which one spins around and docks going into the current. Fern, Hoppie’s wife is the fountain of knowledge for boating on the Mississippi and she gave all of us a chart class on where to anchor and what to watch out for on our way down the river. We also took a quick walk into town and sampled the mile high apple pie at a local restaurant.
At anchor at Boston Bar - Note the current on our
anchor retrieval bouy

On Wednesday, we did another 40 miles or so to the Kaskaskia River where we tied up to the lock. That afternoon we, Bali Motu and Silver Boots took the dinghies (theirs as ours is way too slow) and went through the lock (interesting in a dinghy) and went 10 miles up the Kaskaskia River to Evansville where we tried a couple of the local establishments for drinks and dinner.

Today was the longest day we have ever done – 110 Statute miles down the Mississippi to an anchorage at Boston Bar about 8 miles above the junction with the Ohio River which was recommended by Fern in lieu of one that had silted in. We are not out of the current, have a (high level) bridge behind us and the tows pass within 300 yards of us. Others, including Silver Boots, have used it and say it is fine but it is definitely different from anywhere else we’ve anchored. We left at 0630 and got in around 1630, helped immensely by the current. Tomorrow we go up the Ohio and have two locks to deal with as well as the current.

Everyone asks for pictures so I’ve attached a few MIS1.jpg is a scene from the Missisippi. This is one of the smaller tows. Noroom is what we had to deal with on the Sanitary and Ship Canal. We were following Honga and as you can see had no place to go. Sunset was tonight’s sunset over the Mississippi. Note the current on the float for our anchor retrieval line! More pictures on the Blog.

Off to Kentucky and Tennessee!

Steve & Jean
Aboard MV Sun Cat

Wednesday, September 12, 2007

Update 9/12/07 - Chicago

Skipper Bob is right. Chicago is a very big town! We tried hard but we certainly didn't see it all. More on that later.

When I started this we were just west of Joliet, Il, having started down the Illinois River yesterday. We are sitting with 8 other looper boats waiting for a lock to be available.

To review the past two weeks, we had an interesting stay in Racine. We walked about 4 miles just to buy one of their (famous?) Kringle pasteries (the walk justified the extra calories of course) used the pool and hot tuib and wandered around town a bit. It was an unusual downtown. There were plenty of stores but no financial district and no downtown hotels. We took a bus to the grocery store planning to take a taxi back so we put a lot of soda in our cart. However, when we asked the store to call us a cab, they said they had never seen one around town and we were unable to find one on the telephone-strange, a city twice the size of Portland and no taxi's! We wound up not buying any of the heavy items and taking the bus back to the marina where we consoled ourselves in the pool and hot tub.

From Racine, we went down to Waukegan, Il to another large (1000 slips!)marina. Our friends Eldon and Dianne flew in to meet us there and brought real Maine Lobsters for us all to enjoy for dinner. Quite a treat! The next day, the 4 of us took the train into Chicago to check out the marina situation. We toured Millenium Park and Navy Pier. The train ride was kind of fun traveling through a bunch of towns I'd heard of but had no idea where they were. It was another reminder that this trip is a real geography lesson.


Sun Cat on wall - Columbia Yacht Club in Background

Chicago skyline and Navy Pier from water


The next day (Friday 8/31) we had a nice trip down Lake Michigan to Chicago and tied up to the wall at Monroe Harbor rather than picking up the mooring we had reserved. The location was great as we were right near the downtown loop and Millenium Park and mid-way between Navy Pier and the Museum Campus which were both within walking distance. We were also within yards of Columbia Yacht Club and Chicago Yacht Club, both of which gave us reciprocal privileges to use their facilities. We also took the "Architectural Cruise. This is a boat trip through part of downtown Chicago where they describe the design features of a number of buildings that were new or innovative. It also gave us our first look at the low bridges on the Chicago River (gulp!).That evening we had a nice dinner at the Columbia Yacht club with both Eldon and Dianne and George and Marion from Time Out.
Monroe Harbor and Navy Pier from Ellen  and Woody's

On Saturday, Eldon and I visited the Chicago History Museum while Jean and Dianne did some shopping and that evening we attended a party for the Loopers and the home of Ellen and Woody Sutton overlooking the harbor and Soldier's Field. On Sunday, Eldon and I went to a Cubs game at Wrigley Field. Wrigley is another real classic park like Fenway and Cubs fans are certainly enthusiastic. We rode to the game on the metro train and it was quite a sight to see thousands of fans arriving and departing in that manner. The Cubs won with a home run in the bottom of the eighth inning which made it even more exciting.






Our view of Wrigley Field


Eldon and Dianne left Monday to fly home and Jean and I spent the day going to the Aquarium and Planetarium. Either one would have been a most of the day adventure. That evening we hosted a happy hour for the crews of Gypsy Time, Sweet Dreams and Lamb Chop. The next day we went to the Hancock Observatory for a great view of Chicago and the surrounding area from very high up. We could see much of the city and the lake shore all the way down to Gary Indiana. This may be as close as we get to seeing any of Indiana. We also went to a Farmer's Market and did a little shopping. That evening there was a Pot Luck Dinner which was attended by six to eight of the looper boats in Chicago.

On Wednesday, we spent the day at the Field Museum. It's mostly natural history, highlighted by Sue. Sue is the skeleton of a large dinosaur. Further in the museum there were may more skeletons of dinosaurs, some real and some replicated. There were also exhibits related to diamonds and other gems, mammals, polonesia and several Indian tribes. We spent all day there and barely scratched the surface.
Entrance to the aquarium

The next day we went to the Museum of Science and Industry. The feature there was the German U-boat #505 which was captured intact by the US Navy in 1944. The submarine was moved to the museum because the Captain of the navy task force that accomplished the capture was from Chicago. The entire sub was inside the building and a very good video described the events leading up to its capture and why it was so important. There were also displays of trains, planes, antique cars, a coal mine and we also watched an interesting Imax movie on Katrina and the Louisiana bayous.

Friday was somewhat of a maintenance day as I changed the oil in the generator, finished my "bridge tickler" pole and lowered the radar dome and dinghy hoist. Most of this was necessary to make sure we could clear the 17 foot bridges in downtown Chicago. That evening we had dinner at the Columbia Yacht Club again with Bob and Sharon from Catch Me If You Can and Bob and Alice from Bali Motu. This was the end of our stay in Chicago. There was still a lot more to see and do but we'd been there a week and it was time to move on.

Starting down the Chicago River
Note "bridge tickler" 
On Saturday, we headed down the Chicago River and the Chicago Sanitary and Ship Canal to Joliet, accompanied by Bali Motu,Transition and Honga. Catch Me left at the same time but went through the Calumet River because of air draft limitations. The trip through downtown Chicago through all of the low bridges and skyscrapers was a lot of fun. However, the last 15 miles or so was nerve wracking as there were barges parked all over the place and we often had to wait for tows going one way or the other in order to find places to pass. The tows move very slowly and were also having to jocky around the parked barges. When we reached the Lockport Lock, we then had to tie off to the commercial mooring cells and waited almost two hours before we could lock through. We were all glad to finally get through the lock and all of us tied off to the free wall at Joliet. We consoled ourselves with a good dinner at the Casino.

The next morning we were awakened early as the next lock (2 miles below us) had informed one of the boats that if we were there by 7:40 they would be ready for us. We got there around 8:30 and wound up waiting over 2 hours to lock through. It was during this wait that I started this update. We stopped after 15 miles with Bali Motu to take a break and enjoy the pool at the marina. We also remounted the radar dome and dinghy hoist.

The next morning I called the Dresden Lock (about 3 miles down) as was informed that if we were there in an hour to an hour and a half they would be ready for us. We got there in about an hour and waited another 30-45 minutes and then they took us through. The next lock turned out to be a longer wait, close to two hours. The delays are the result of the tows which can be up to 12 or even 15 barges. These have to be broken up to go through the locks and then reassembled afterwards. This process can easily take several hours and we've heard of boats having to wait over 5 hours to clear a lock. After another delay at Marsellais Lock, we stopped for the night at the free dock at Ottawa, Il. where we were joined by Drifters. As has often been the case, the locals were very friendly and helpful. Joe gave the ladies a ride to the grocery store and John Mobley, a previous looper gave all six of us a ride to the local Mexican restaurant which was good. Ottawa was the site of the first Lincoln/Douglas debate and was an interesting town to walk around.

As I finish this, we are going down the Illinois River about 120 miles from Chicago. We got off at 9 this morning but had a 2 hour wait at the Starving Rock Lock before we really got going. The Illinois has changed from heavy industry to mostly rural areas and has become quite scenic. It seems to get better and the number of tows seem to decrease the further south (really west) we go.

Still having a great time!

Steve and Jean
Aboard M/V Sun Cat